A plaster positive of the model’s face is backed with clay, both for support and as a mold making key.
Mold Max® 30 silicone rubber will then be used to create a mold of the plaster/clay positive.
The mix ratio for Mold Max® 30 is 100A:10B by weight. For this application 1,000 g of Part A is measured using an accurate gram scale.
100 g of Part B is also measured.
Part A is poured into a larger mixing container.
Part B is then added and mixed thoroughly, scraping the sides and bottom, until a uniform color is reached
Thi-Vex® Silicone Thickener is added and mixed to allow the rubber to be brushable.
A mold of the lifecast is made by brushing the Mold Max® silicone onto the surface of the positive; attaining a thickness of 3/8". Allow to cure completely.
Plasti-Paste® II will used to create a support shell. It is measured 1 part A to 2 parts B by volume, and applied as 2 layers; mixing each separately.
Mix first application of Plasti-Paste® II thoroughly; scraping the bottom and sides as you mix.
Apply a liberal layer of Plasti-Paste® II to the outside surface of the Mold Max® mold; covering the entire surface. While first layer is still tacky, mix and apply second layer.
After second layer of Plasti-Paste® II has cured, two thin coats of EpoxAcoat® GREY epoxy will be used to create a hard epoxy casting in the Mold Max® mold.
EpoxAcoat® GREY epoxy is mixed 100 parts A to 15 parts B. For this application 200 g of Part A is measured using an accurate gram scale.
30 g of Part B is also measured out.
Parts A and B are then combined and mixed thoroughly; scraping the sides and bottom of the container.
EpoxAcoat® Grey is brushed into the cured Mold Max® silicone mold. Once this layer is "tacky hard", mix a second layer and brush on over first layer.
Free Form® Air epoxy dough is mixed thoroughly in equal parts by volume, until color of putty is uniform.
While the second layer of EpoxAcoat® epoxy is still "tacky hard", the Free Form® Air is applied to provide support.
Once cured, the epoxy casting is demolded from the Mold Max® mold, and prepared for the appliance sculpture.
Clay is applied to the casting, then sculpted to create the zombie face appliance model.
With face appliance sculpture finished on epoxy casting, apply Ease Release® 200 release agent. Allow to dry and repeat.
EpoxAcoat® is mixed and applied to the sculpt to make a 2-part mold.
Mix equal parts of Free Form® Air epoxy putty thoroughly and apply to the tacky surface of the EpoxAcoat® Grey for support. Let cure for 4 hours.
After curing, carefully separate the epoxy shells and clean out initial clay appliance sculpture.
Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® is used to create the surface layer for the facial appliance. The mix ratio of Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® is 1:1 by weight or volume.
Silc Pig® Blood pigment is combined with Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® part B.
Parts A and B are then combined and mixed thoroughly.
A layer of Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® is stippled on the mold positive and negative using a disposable brush.
50g FX-Pro® Part A combined with 50g FX-Pro® Part B and 100g SLACKER® will produce a soft silicone gel.
The Silc Pig® pigments are combined with Dragon Skin® FX-Pro® part B to simulate the flesh tone of the model.
All of the material components are combined and mixed thoroughly.
The material mixture is slowly poured into the mold in a thin stream to eliminate air bubbles.
The parts are aligned and put together to sandwich the silicone appliance for proper curing.
The 2-part mold is closed tightly and the FX-Pro® cures in 1 hour.
After 1 hour, the mold is opened and the cured FX-Pro® piece is removed. The appliance is guided out of the negative mold using a brush and talcum powder.
The finished FX-Pro® silicone appliance.
Skin Tite® silicone adhesive is dispensed in equal parts and mixed thoroughly.
Skin Tite® adhesive is applied to the face in preparation for the zombie appliance.
The finished appliance is then carefully adhered to the face.
Once the appliance is properly adhered to the model, it is time to finish the effect by adding makeup.
To aid in blending, makeup is spattered onto the face and appliance using a chip brush.
With the makeup complete, the final step is to fit the model with zombie contacts and rotted teeth.
Our zombie is now ready for a night on the town.