Making a One Piece Cut Seam Mold of a Head Using Body Double®

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Making a One Piece Cut Seam Mold of a Head Using Body Double®

Body Double^® Silicone Rubber is used by both professionals and hobbyists to make ultra-high definition impressions directly off the human body. In their cured state, molds made using Body Double^® Silicone Rubber exhibit virtually no shrinkage. Furthermore, Body Double^® molds will maintain their dimensional stability for many years even after being cast many times. Body Double^® is the only ACMI-rated (Non-Toxic) rubber IN THE WORLD designed specifically for lifecasting.

There are two versions of Body Double^® available - STANDARD SET & FAST SET. There are only three distinct differences between the two versions:

1. Pot Life - the amount of time you have to work with the material to get Part's A & B mixed thoroughly and applied before it gels. The STANDARD SET has a 5 minute Pot Life; the FAST SET has a 90 second Pot Life.

2. Cure Time - how long it takes for the silicone rubber to fully cure. The STANDARD SET has a 25 minute Cure Time; the FAST SET has a 6 minute Cure Time.

3. Color - the STANDARD SET has a purple color when thoroughly mixed; the FAST SET has an Aqua Green color when thoroughly mixed. We gave them different colors so users will know which version they are working with.

It is possible to incorporate both versions of Body Double^® into one mold, especially in situations where a longer Pot Life in the silicone rubber is desired in order to pick-up ultra-high definition on the surface of the skin, such as facial features. In the sequence below, both versions of the silicone are used in the mold of the model's head.

This photo sequence details creating a one piece cut seam mold of an entire head. One piece molds are useful because seam lines can be more easily hidden and removed from finished castings.

1 - Supplies are assembled and prepared.	2 - Model is prepped for the mold making process.	3 - Putting the bald cap in place to protect the model's hair.
4 - Bald cap is cut and fitted around model's ears and hairline.	5 - Bald Cap is adhered to model's skin.	6 - Blending the edge of the bald cap with acetone.
7 - Any exposed skin surfaces are prepared by applying a thin layer of Body Double® Release Cream. Body Double® Release Cream will hold hairs down so they do not get encapsulated by the silicone rubber.	8 - Earplugs will prevent Body Double® from running into the ear cavity.	9 - The cap is removed from a Body Double® FAST SET cartridge.
10 - Meter mix tube is attached to Body Double® FAST SET cartridge.	11 - The cartridge is secured in the dispensing gun and ready for use.	12 - Body Double® is dispensed into a cup for easier application to the model.
13 - Body Double® FAST SET is applied to the back of the model's head.	14 - Two layers of Body Double® FAST SET are applied to reach an adequate thickness.	15 - A batch of Body Double® FAST SET thickened with Thi-Vex® II is mixed and applied. A cut seam is built down the back of the mold. The cut seam will not only provide an easy place to split the finished mold, but will also lock into the support shell.
16 - Body Double® STANDARD SET is applied to the face. This batch has Silicone Thinner® added into the mix to loosen-up the consistency of the silicone rubber. This will ensure that the material picks up even the most minute detail on the skin.	17 - Second layer of Body Double® STANDARD SET applied directly onto the first layer after the first layer develops a tacky surface.	18 - A batch of Body Double® STANDARD SET thickened with Thi-Vex® II is mixed and applied. Thickened material is used to build undercuts (under the chin/eyebrows), fill in gaps (ears), and to quickly build thickness of the mold.
19 - Body Double® STANDARD SET thickened with Thi-Vex® II is further applied to fill in gaps and increase mold thickness.	20 - To speed up the process, a heat gun is used to decrease the cure time of Body Double®. Be sure the heat gun does not get too hot and make the model uncomfortable. Once the Body Double® has fully cured, a plaster bandage support shell can be applied.	21 - Pre-cut plaster bandages are prepared for use as the support shell.
22 - The support shell will be built in two halves. The first step is to create a parting line along the high point of the model's head.	23 - When applying the plaster bandages, be sure to NOT cover the breathing holes for the model. In this application, the model is breathing through his nose.	24 - Front half of plaster bandage support shell is completed.
25 - Prior to applying the second half of the support shell, a layer of petroleum jelly is applied to the seam line to serve as a parting agent between the two halves.	26 - More plaster bandages are built up on the back of the mold.	27 - After the plaster bandages have been completely applied, it is necessary to let the bandages cure solid. This will usually take about 7 - 10 minutes.
28 - Once the bandages are fully cured, the support shell can be removed.	29 - The thickened cut seam is used as a guide for carefully splitting the mold.	30 - Once the seam has been cut, the Body Double® mold can be peeled away from the model's head.
31 - Carefully peel the mold away from the ears.	32 - Slowly pull the Body Double® mold away from the face. This should be done with care so as to not pull out any of the model's facial hair.	33 - Finished mold has picked up perfect detail from the model's head.
34 - Ready for casting: For added effect, Cast Magic® Bronzonker powder will be brushed onto the surface of the mold.	35 - Carefully brush Cast Magic® into the mold cavity. Be sure to cover all areas, including deep-set spaces like the ears and nose. Excess Cast Magic® should be removed to prevent imperfections in the finished casting.	36 - Body Double® is then seated in the support shell. The shell is taped securely together and then taped into a bucket. This will help keep the mold level and will make handling easier.
37 - Casting: Smooth-Cast® 320 will be mixed with Ure-fil® 7 and rotationally cast into the mold. Mix ratio will be 1 Part A to 1 Part B to 2 Parts Ure-fil® by volume.	38 - For added effect, start by adding some red SO-Strong® tint to Part B of the resin.	39 - Materials are ready to be mixed.
40 - Start by pouring Part B into a mixing container.	41 - Ure-fil® is a fine powder. It will make the resin more dimensionally stable. It will also make it slightly thicker and perfect for rotational casting.	42 - Add filler to Part B.
43 - Mix Ure-Fil® with Smooth-Cast® 320 Part B thoroughly prior to adding Part A.	44 - Add Part A to the mix.	45 - Continue mixing all components until there are no color striations in the material. Be sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the mixing container.
46 - Pour resin mixture into the mold.	47 - Rotate and roll the mold to move resin around the surface.	48 - Turn the mold on its side and allow resin to flow to all surfaces of the mold. Be careful not to spill the resin.
49 - Continue rotating the mold until the resin sets. The mold is left with with a hollow shell of resin which can then be backfilled with a lightweight foam.	50 - Smooth-On's Foam-iT!® 5 expanding urethane foam is tinted, mixed and poured into the mold cavity.	51 - Foam-iT!® 5 will serve as a strong, lightweight backer, saving material costs while maintaining good structural integrity.
52 - Once the resin and foam have fully cured, the casting can be demolded.	53 - Body Double® can be peeled away from the casting and is strong and flexible enough to be turned inside out. This versatility makes Body Double® an ideal lifecasting material.	54 - Finished casting reflects perfect detail from the original model captured by the Body Double® silicone. Many different castings can be produced with a single Body Double® mold with endless possibilities for finishes.